The FESTA della Madonna del Lume

Around the first Sunday in October, our fishing village of Porticello is in a state of emergency, as it becomes the venue for a traditional, lively, colorful, but also serious and reverent festival.

Every village in Sicily, no matter how small, has a patron saint in whose honor a large festival is celebrated once a year – this tradition is very old and has developed over centuries. Saints or protectors existed for churches, cities, regions, but also for communities such as professional groups, or because they were associated with a particular event.

In Porticello, the patron saint is Madonna SS (Santissima) del Lume, which translates as "Most Holy Mary of Light"—here, Mary, the mother of Jesus, was chosen as the patron saint under this special title. In Porticello, the Madonna del Lume holds particular significance for the fishermen—according to legend, fishermen found the image of the Madonna del Lume in the sea while hauling in their nets.

The fact that the veneration of the Madonna del Lume as protector of the sea and the fishermen is still particularly deep and seriously rooted in Porticello is certainly due to the fact that the fishermen, who even today still travel at night on the Black Sea, are exposed to special and unpredictable dangers from wind and weather.

• 

• 

Porticello's church of Maria SS del Lume is magnificently decorated during the festive season. The church's namesake also adorns houses and ships.

Preparations begin as early as the end of September; the houses, streets and church of Porticello are decorated and illuminated.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

The festivities begin on the first weekend of October – each day starts at 7 a.m. with cannon fire, the "Alborata," and in some years there is even a religious program with a candlelight procession starting at 5 a.m. and the first mass at 6 a.m. Throughout the day, tambourine players and marching bands parade through the streets, always including children.

The fun-filled "Gioco dell'Antinna a mari" (Antinna's Game at Sea) usually takes place on Saturday and Sunday afternoons at 3 pm, when the whole village gathers at the harbor. Participants try to reach the end of a long wooden beam, which is constantly being greased, and grab a flag – but usually, they fall into the water in front of the assembled villagers. A winner is crowned on Sunday evening. The game is typical of Sicilian fishing villages and is also a regular feature of the patron saint festivals in Cefalù, Aspra, and Terrasini, among others.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

The central religious festival and also the most emotional moment of the celebration is the "Dicese del quadro" (Passing of the Image). On the Monday after the first weekend in October, at 3 p.m., the image of Our Lady of the Light (Madonna SS del Lume) is lowered from the high altar in the church of the same name and passed from hand to hand through the church above the heads of the tightly packed faithful. People try to touch the image, kiss it, or hold a handkerchief to it. Tears flow, both from emotion and because at this moment, memories are kept of the deceased and family members who have emigrated and cannot spend this festival day with their families in Porticello. After the image is placed on the "vara," the bier, the custom of the "offerta dei bambini alla Madonna" (offering of the children to the Madonna) begins: parents hand their children, even infants, forward so that they can be held directly in front of the image of the Madonna, placing them under her protection.

Around 5 p.m., the Madonna, carried on a bier, leaves the church accompanied by the ringing of bells and brass bands. The very heavy bier is carried on the shoulders of many men – traditionally barefoot, wearing light blue clothing and a red neckerchief. The procession, which is frequently interrupted and involves a large crowd, leads along the Lungomare promenade to the bay of Santa Nicolicchia, where the legendary emergence of the image of Mary from the sea is reenacted with music and fireworks, before the procession returns the bier to the church late in the evening.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

The image of Mary in the harbor basin of Santa Nicolicchia remains anchored during the festival week. Some people also place wreaths of flowers in the water.

The following week of festivities is called Ottavia – it includes religious services, prayers, and small processions. Alongside the religious festival, a public fair takes place throughout the week. At Piano Steditore, the Lungomare promenade directly below Casa America, there are stalls selling sweets. Chestnuts (caldarroste) are roasted on long metal cylinders, from which thick plumes of white smoke rise. Towards the cocktail bar, behind the fishing port, small rides such as a carousel for children are set up.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

The second Sunday in October marks the second highlight and conclusion of the patronal festival: the image of Mary is carried by water to the small chapel of the Madonna del Lume during the Processione a mare !

Preparations begin on Saturday evening: the image is carried from the church in a small procession to the Mercato Ittico, the fish market. The market hall becomes a place of worship that night, remaining open all night, with a vigil, and people coming to pray. The fish market's role underscores the special connection between Maria SS del Lume and the fishermen.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

On Sunday morning, several masses will be held in the fish market hall. In the afternoon, the two-part procession begins: at 3:30 p.m., the "Processione via terra" (land procession) starts on foot from the Church of Maria SS del Lume to the chapel in front of Capo Zafferano. Simultaneously, at 4:00 p.m., the image of the Virgin Mary is carried from the market hall to the port and, in front of a large crowd, loaded onto a fishing boat, which was drawn by lot beforehand. Accompanied by many other fishing boats, it then proceeds in the "Processione a mare" (sea procession) to the Chapel of Maria del Lume, where, around 5:00 p.m., the two processions—the land procession and the sea procession—meet. The boats gather on the water, the walkers on land, and prayers and a religious address follow, along with the blessing of the sea and a commemoration of those who have died at sea.

• 

• 

• 

• 

Afterwards, the image is carried back to the church by land and at the "Salita del Quadro" at about 7 pm it is lifted back into its place on the altar, where it will remain for the following year until the next Festa delle Madonna del Lume.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

All the described procedures can vary slightly from year to year, so you should always consult the current annual program if you wish to participate in the events. The detailed program is usually only available at short notice on the Facebook page of the "Comitato Festeggiamenti Maria Santissima del Lume - Porticello" or on the websites "Santa Flavia News" or "VivaSicilia".

If you’re not in Porticello at the beginning of October, you may have the chance to experience another traditional patron saint festival in the area.

Palermo: “Festino di Santa Rosalia”, every year from 10 to 15 July. The highlight is on 14 July, when the triumphal float of Santa Rosalia makes its way through Palermo’s historic centre.

Aspra: “Festa di Maria Santissima Addolorata”, around 15 September. On 15 September, a procession through Aspra ends with a fireworks display. As in Porticello, there is also a procession at sea and the traditional “Gioco dell’Antenna”, held on varying dates around the main festival.

Sant’Elia: “Festa di Maria Santissima Addolorata di Sant’Elia”. The religious feast day is 15 September, while the main celebrations usually take place on the following weekend. The programme includes the “Gioco dell’Antenna” and the “Sagra del Pesce Azzurro”, a fish festival featuring local fish such as sardines and anchovies.

Santa Flavia: “Festa di Sant’Anna”, around 26 July. A smaller local festival whose highlight is the evening procession, followed by a fireworks display.

Bagheria: “Festa di San Giuseppe”. The religious feast day of San Giuseppe is 19 March, but the large patron saint festival is celebrated in summer, in August or September. The programme includes a solemn procession with the statue of San Giuseppe, parades of traditional drummers (“Tamburinai di Baarìa”), a procession of elaborately painted Sicilian horse-drawn carts (“Sfilata dei Carretti Siciliani”), and a food market offering regional specialities, particularly Sfincione bagherese.

Altavilla Milicia: “Festa della Madonna della Milicia”, around 8 September.The highlight is the “Volata degli Angeli”: during the procession, children dressed as angels are suspended on ropes above the image of the Madonna and sing in her honour.

Casteldaccia: “Festa di San Giuseppe”, from mid to late August. The procession also features the “Volata degli Angeli”, as well as traditional drummers, street food, music and fireworks.

Trabia: “Festa del Santissimo Crocifisso”, on the last Sunday in September. A procession with participants in historical costumes reenacts the discovery of a crucifix. One unusual tradition is the “siminzaru”: during the procession, a seed seller throws roasted chickpeas towards the crucifix and asks for a blessing.

San Nicola l’Arena: “Festa della Madonna Assunta”, on 15 August, featuring a procession of the Madonna on boats across the sea.

Termini Imerese: “Festa del Beato Agostino Novello”, on 19 May. A procession with relics – physical remains of the patron saint, brought by ship from Siena to Termini in 1620 – is accompanied by religious brotherhoods and local residents.

Cefalù: “Festa del Santissimo Salvatore”, from 2 to 6 August. The celebrations include the large “Gioco dell’Antenna”, with the main procession taking place on 6 August.

• 

• 

• 

•