EAT!
Sicily boasts an incredible wealth of history and culture, unique customs, and stunning landscapes. But how much is all of this enhanced by the culinary skills of the Sicilian people? However beautiful and eventful a day in Sicily may be, an evening feast in a local restaurant – even a simple one – is always the perfect finishing touch!
Of course, the already high expectations for Italian food are met – delicious stone-baked pizza is available in many variations, both classic and with local toppings – seafood, fried eggplant ("melanzane"), garnished with pistachios. But especially in very traditional trattorias, where mostly locals eat, the cuisine is very much influenced by the proximity to Africa! A typical Sicilian dish is "Pasta con le Sarde": pasta (often handmade!) with sardines, wild fennel, raisins, saffron, and pistachios, garnished with breadcrumbs. And, of course, the coastal location is reflected in the menus: they are filled with fish and seafood dishes. If our children turn up their noses at these dishes, which are so delicious to us but special to them, and can't find anything they like on the menu, an "extra order" with simple tomato sauce is never a problem.
If the main courses weren't so delicious, one could easily fill up on the delectable starters or the appetizers served with aperitifs! Typical Sicilian dishes include caponata, a warm dish with eggplant, tomatoes, and capers, seasoned with a sweet and sour, intense flavor, or lice marinate (fresh sardines in a lemon marinade). Since the dishes are generally made with fresh ingredients, seasonal dishes are featured on the menus: stuffed cauliflower and artichokes ("carciofi ripiemi") in winter, wild fennel in spring, fennel and broccoli in spring, and of course, delicious tomatoes, eggplants, and zucchini in the summer months, to name just a few. Fish also have their seasons; tuna, for example, are mainly caught from May to June: when they migrate to Sicily to spawn, the "Mattanza", the traditional tuna hunt, takes place, often accompanied by local festivities.
And then there are the desserts! Cannoli are among the greatest icons of Sicilian culture! A sweet ricotta cream encased in crisp pastry, garnished with pistachio crumbs or chocolate shavings. In fact, Sicilian desserts are not only a sweet temptation but always a visual delight, a feast for all the senses! Cassata and all kinds of cakes are often decorated with colorful icing, candied fruit, and lavish, handcrafted marzipan decorations. And often, not only specialty shops but even the corner bar displays lavishly decorated and filled tarts. For example, with small wild strawberries! Of course, the ice cream is nothing like what you get in Germany. Incidentally, ice cream in a brioche bun – "gelato con brioche" – is a common breakfast dish in Sicily.
Bars and restaurants in the area
This list is not exhaustive. We are still exploring the local area ourselves and will certainly add recommendations from time to time...
Let's start with breakfast :
First of all: in Sicily, people generally eat a sweet, if not a very sweet, breakfast with their cappuccino!
For a quick and easy first cappuccino, head to the small " BARaonda," just 50 meters below Casa America. The cappuccino is delicious, and there are three small tables outside overlooking the fish market and the sea. Only Italian is spoken, and a cappuccino costs €1.20. This is a popular spot for fishermen (they often come here for their morning beer after work, while you're just starting your day). From Tuesday to Saturday, on the days of the night fish market, the bar opens at 1 a.m.!
A little further away is the bar " Le Delizie," directly opposite the church "Maria SS del Lume." Here you'll find a wider selection of sweet pastries or pizza-like savory baked goods (which Sicilians wouldn't eat for breakfast, but our children sometimes love). If you'd like to try it, they also offer a "brioche con gelato," an ice cream in a bun.
For those willing to take a 10-minute stroll across the harbor for breakfast , " Al Panfilo" offers everything your heart desires: a wide selection of sweet and savory pastries and cakes, "spremuta" (freshly squeezed, delicious orange juice), and "brioche con gelato." There's always plenty of seating with sea views, both outdoors in the sun and shade, or indoors if you happen to encounter one of the rare rainy days. Al Panfilo is closed on Mondays.
For breakfast at home, in addition to the sweet pastries available in bars and bakeries, we recommend the delicious freshly baked flatbreads that can be found at the deli counter in the supermarket (Via Sant'Elia 97/H).
LUNCH AND DINNER
Within walking distance in PORTICELLO and SANTA FLAVIA
Al Panfilo is the all-rounder: in addition to a wide selection of breakfast options, there's an extensive lunch and dinner menu. Less fancy, but quick and uncomplicated, you can get standard pasta dishes like "Penne alla Matriciana" and "alla Norma," or "Spaghetti Carbonara" or "ai Frutti di mare" starting at €7, as well as truly delicious pizzas starting at €5.50. Our first stop for lunch, unless we're at Sant'Elia Beach, enjoying bruschetta at the beach bar. Closed on Mondays.
A must for us on every stay in Porticello, and not just because we have a personal connection through our site manager's family: a meal at Kantuccio ! Centrally located on the main square, you can sit beautifully with an unobstructed view of the harbor, or on cooler days, in the very cozy interior of this former historic fisherman's house. The menu offers everything your heart desires: a large selection of starters, pasta dishes, pizzas, and fresh fish dishes, as well as the house wine, and the service is always excellent. You can't go wrong here!
If you really want to go all out, you can treat yourself to an exclusive evening at the La Strummula restaurant! Seating is available not only on the street side with a sea view, but also in the spacious courtyard lined with palm trees. Here, you'll enjoy a multi-course menu, complemented by a matching wine recommendation, each course presented with great attention to detail, like small works of art! The menu changes regularly, and there's always a vegetarian option. Seasonally changing multi-course menus are offered, featuring "zero-kilometer" products—freshly caught fish or vegetables and fruit from the garden, which the chef personally cultivates. Of course, the price at this restaurant is a bit higher in the end, but it's always worth it for an evening that will remain unforgettable.
Babilonia is located right next to Santa Flavia train station. Whether it's breakfast, lunch, or dinner, you'll always find a table outside or inside, and good, affordable food. You'll find families with children here, for whom there are small sandwiches for €1.50, as well as delicious pasta dishes and stone-baked pizzas. Our favorite is the "Porticello" pizza with a mozzarella ball in the center and pesto cream – delicious!
Quick and easy pasta for lunch at "Al Panfilo" or an excellent dinner on the main square at "Kantuccio"
Pizza at "Babilonia" and a feast for all the senses at "La Strummula"
Right on the water in the small bay of Santa Nicolicchia: pizza at La Punta - and afterwards an ice cream in the harbor at La Serenalla.