The coastal town of CefalÙ
Cefalù is no longer a hidden gem; the coastal town consistently ranks highly in travel recommendations for Sicily. And rightly so! Long before the Romans, people settled on the massive rock "La Rocca." Its strategic location has always been attractive; after the Greeks and Romans, the Byzantines and Arabs settled there.
In the 12th century, the Norman King Roger II commissioned the construction of the world-famous cathedral in Cefalù, adorned with gold mosaics. It was intended to demonstrate the power of the newly founded Kingdom of Sicily and was originally meant to serve as his final resting place (though he was ultimately buried in Palermo). The monumental image of Christ in the chancel is among the most important mosaics in Europe.
Bathers on the beach of Cefalù in January and July
The city's charm lies not only in its significant cultural heritage, but also in its wonderfully long sandy beach. On hot summer days, children and teenagers constantly jump into the water from the pier that juts out into the sea at the western end of the beach – a spectacle one could watch forever. From this spot, there's a particularly beautiful view of the city's unique backdrop! The first row of houses, extending right to the sandy beach, blends medieval architecture with various historical periods, while the people you encounter here are a colorful mix of culture-loving tourists, beachgoers, families with children, and boisterously gesticulating locals.
In the lower medieval streets, where our wives, by the way, like to linger in the various clothing shops, as well as in the ice cream parlors on the piazza in front of the cathedral, it can get very crowded during peak season and on holidays. However, if you walk a few streets higher, for example, past the cathedral to the right and up the hill, you'll encounter very few people even at these times, and hear the clatter of cooking utensils and televisions playing in the homes of the locals.
If you were to continue following the path upwards, you would soon reach the entrance to the "Parco della Rocca di Cefalù" (admission fee €5, concession €2.50), a nature and archaeology area with a well-maintained hiking trail. After a 20-30 minute climb, you'll be rewarded with panoramic views over the rooftops of Cefalù, the beach and the north coast of Sicily, passing between pine trees and traces of earlier settlements dating back to antiquity (important information here).
Taking the train from Porticello to Cefalù is a good option. From Santa Flavia, the journey takes about an hour with a transfer, while from Bagheria (where parking is readily available at the train station), connections take from 38 minutes. By car, the drive takes approximately 45 minutes, and you can choose one of the parking lots near the beach. Expect to pay between €5 for two hours and €15 for 12 hours.
A stroll through Cefalù, starting at the beach, admiring the view of the town and its rocky promontory from the pier, then wandering through the narrow streets with their shops, visiting the cathedral, and enjoying the tranquility behind it after a short climb, should include passing Piazza Garibaldi on the way back to the train station or parking lot. The former, unfortunately now empty, hotel, still bearing the inscription "Albergo Barranco," and the adjacent Art Nouveau building are relics of Cefalù's early tourist phase (late 19th/early 20th century), when the town transformed from a fishing village into the seaside resort of modern Sicily. Unlike the square in front of the cathedral, this square is not primarily frequented by tourists in the evenings, but also by many locals, dressed up for an aperitif.
Other important information for your visit to Cefalù: The cathedral, like many churches in Sicily, closes for lunch. Opening hours: 8:30 a.m. to 1 p.m., 3:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. (until 7 p.m. in summer). Visiting the church itself is free, but there is an entrance fee for the cloister, tower, and roof (depending on the options, €8-13). We haven't had much experience with dining out, for example, at one of the restaurants with balconies overlooking the water. Lunch at "Passafiume Cantina Bistrot," next to the cathedral, was highly recommended: delicious pasta, friendly and attentive service, and reasonable prices despite the location. Another time, we ordered an extremely tasty pizza to go from "Bottega Tivitti" on the beach promenade because there were no tables available, and ate it on the beach. Recently, we visited Cefalù for the first time later in the day and enjoyed the sunset with an aperitivo overlooking the pier – a highly recommended experience!
Cefalù offers countless beautiful photo opportunities: be it the young people jumping into the water from the pier in front of the backdrop of houses, the cobbled streets of the old town or the cathedral from the 12th century.