ASPRA
Aspra is the next town north of Porticello and Sant'Elia when looking from the coast – between them lies Monte Catalfano with its nature reserve, hiking trails, and the spectacular panoramic path to Capo Zafferano . Like Porticello, Aspra is characterized by fishing, but the fishing fleet is considerably smaller – there is no lively, bustling harbor, but rather a sandy beach where the small wooden boats are hauled ashore.
The fishing boats on Aspra beach are often beautifully painted in bright colors and offer great photo opportunities!
Aspra boasts a spacious promenade and a sandy beach where families with children can still be found cooling off or picnicking in the summer evenings. While we admire sunrises in Porticello, which faces east towards the sea, Aspra is our favorite spot to watch the sun disappear behind Monte Pellegrino in the evening, with a view of Palermo, after the sea and sky have been bathed in often vibrant orange or purple hues. Even if the sun has just set in Porticello, a trip to Aspra is still worthwhile – because as soon as the coastal road curves left near the Arco Azzurro, it reappears, bathing Capo Zafferano in warm, yellow evening light when you look back.
Because you always have the most beautiful sunsets, for us it's classic to have an aperitif in Porticello or Bagheria in the evening before dinner!
Near the painted wooden boats on Aspra beach, you'll often see fishermen playing the typical Sicilian card game Briscola. The kiosk on the waterfront promenade, like almost every small bar, offers a wide variety of attractively presented cakes and ice creams.
Two highlights in Aspra, located near the beach promenade and also suitable for inclement weather, are a visit to the historic Villa Sant'Isodoro da Cordova, which still contains furnishings from the past two centuries, and a visit to the anchovy museum "Museo dell'Acciuga e delle Arti Marinade" (Museum of Anchovies and Marinating Arts). This small museum is run by Michelangelo Balistreri, whose family has been processing anchovies for generations. He is also the one who makes the visit a truly special experience, personally guiding visitors through the exhibition and not only sharing personal stories but also actively involving them by dressing them in fishermen's clothing and having them perform fishing techniques, or even dancing a waltz to traditional music played from old jukeboxes.
Administratively, Aspra is a district of Bagheria, but many perceive it as a separate village with its distinctive coastal and fishing village character. It's a good 10-minute drive from Porticello to Aspra – and if you take the time on the way back to descend one of the three sets of stairs to the "Tre Piscine" (Three Pools), you'll be rewarded with a wonderful view of Capo Zafferano and the open sea!
There is no regular public transport connection between Porticello and Aspra, but during the high season a free shuttle bus runs between Bagheria, Santa Flavia, Porticello, Sant'Elia and Aspra in a circle between 6 am and 4:30 pm.