The SOLUNTO archaeological site

Many people don't know that despite Sicily's distance from mainland Greece, some of the largest Greek temples are located there! The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is considered one of the most important Greek monuments outside of mainland Greece; the Temple of Olympian Zeus, at over 112 meters long, was one of the largest temples in the Greek world; and Selinus is known as the largest archaeological park in Europe. The Greek colonies in Sicily were extraordinarily powerful and wealthy in the 6th and 5th centuries BC.

There is also an archaeological excavation site in Porticello, just a 20-minute walk from Casa America - since it is less well known, it can definitely be described as a hidden gem!

Solunto is not a temple city, but rather a city originally founded by the Phoenicians and conquered by Greeks in the 4th and 3rd centuries, where one can experience everyday life in an ancient city.

One can discern the street network with its rectangular layout, remains of residential buildings, cisterns, the gymnasium and an amphitheater.

What's striking about Solunto is that the excavations, like the mosaics, are unprotected and accessible. There's no guard anywhere, nor are they protected by glass. They're exposed to the weather, the sun, encroaching vegetation, and visitors. One wonders what will be left of them in 100 years – whereas the mosaics were well protected by a layer of earth for over 2,000 years before they were uncovered. Despite all the concerns about preservation and the lack of funding, this very fact makes the site particularly beautiful! You don't feel like you're in a museum, and signage is very scarce. Instead, you can freely explore and get a sense of the ancient city – and sometimes you'll have the entire site to yourself.

View from above of Porticello

What also makes Solunto spectacular is its location and the sweeping view of Porticello, and, if you walk to the very end, of Capo Zafferano! If you walk all the way up the hill and then down a bit on the other side, you again have a view of Bagheria and the Gulf of Palermo and understand that you are on the protruding coastal ridge of Monte Catalfano.

The bay of Santa Nicolicchia and Capo Zafferano

Once you've climbed the hill, you have a view to the left of the bay from Porticello to Cefalù, and to the right you can see Bagheria and the Gulf of Palermo!

A visit to Solunto is especially beautiful and highly recommended during the shoulder seasons, when the meadows are lush and green, particularly in spring when flowers are in bloom! You are exposed to the elements on the grounds – in case of rain, you can take refuge in the museum, while in blazing sun, you need to protect yourself well and bring drinking water, as the heat up there can be relentless. Our visits in January and April were wonderful; in June, our guests were also impressed, but unfortunately, the meadows had already turned brown.

While we had previously always driven the short distance to the entrance (there's a parking lot in front), we walked during our visit last April. It's only 20 minutes from Casa America and easy to find: walk past the church on the right, up Via Solunto, cross the road, and then follow the footpath with its steps and paths upwards. Along the way, you'll be amazed by the views of the coast, but these are far surpassed by the archaeological site itself!

It's only a 20-minute walk from Casa America to the entrance of the Solunto archaeological site, where you can explore the area independently with a map.

Solunto (homepage linked here )

Via Collegio Romana, 90017 Santa Flavia

Opening hours: Mon to Sat 9am - 6:30pm, Sun and public holidays: 9am - 2pm, sometimes closing earlier in winter (it is recommended to check the website for current information). Last admission one hour before closing time.

Tickets can be purchased on site at the day ticket office.